Archives For haircuts

Springtime is finally showing signs of life which means Summer is not too far behind. It’s the perfect time to start thinking about growing out those bangs you got in the Fall or Winter. So many times I’ve seen women walking around New York City in the middle of Summer with their bangs stuck to their forehead with sweat. Not a good look!

If you have a heavy bang like this picture, two things need to happen…

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The first thing is to ask your stylist to texturize or thin out the ends to take the blunt edge out. This will collapse the weight and allow you to sweep them to the sides easier without being bulky. The second thing to decide is if you’re going to eventually wear your hair with a center part or side part. This is important because it will tell your stylist how to start subtly angling your bangs to grow out.

 

If you have a wispy, thin bang like the picture below, here are a few tips to grow them out.

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I would suggest to actually add more hair to them. I know, sounds crazy but if you add a longer fringe over the existing wispy bangs it will camouflage and blend them into the rest of the haircut. You can add some face framing layers to add softness around the face and also to integrate and blend the bangs.

When all else fails…braid them away!

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It’s quick, easy and braids are continuously on trend. Simple, clean and fresh!

Good luck, and stay cool!

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Face It

December 10, 2012 — 1 Comment

I get a lot of questions from clients and friends about how to know what hairstyles will work for them. As a conscientious stylist I consider a lot of different factors when developing a haircut and style. There’s hair type, texture, density, lifestyle, maintenance and last but certainly not least, face shape.  Face shape in fact is so important that I often start there to eliminate shapes that will not work with the person I’m working with and I’ll build from there. So let’s chat about basic face shape theory and what hairstyles work with which shapes best.

There are a few ways you can tell what face shape you are. Start by looking in the mirror and see if you can identify an obvious shape. If that doesn’t work ask a friend to take a look. A fresh set of eyes that can step back and look from a distance helps. The last way is to break your face down into zones. First zone is from your hairline to the eyebrows. The second zone is from your eyebrows to under the nose. The third zone is from the end of the nose to the jaw.

Observe what you see in each zone. For instance, let’s take the diamond shape. Your face will be slightly longer than it is wide. The jaw line and forehead will be narrow with the widest part of your face being in your cheeks.

A diamond shape is really versatile. You can add a fringe to widen a narrow forehead and pull off a cut that hits at the jaw to widen a pointed chin. You can also show off those great cheekbones with a long layered cut that moves away from the face at the cheeks.

Here are some guidelines for the other common face shapes.

  • Square-defined jaw and straight hairline. The sides of your face are straight vertical lines and your face is as long as it is wide.

Hairstyles-Get the thought of heavy bangs out of your mind! It will shorten and widen your face. Try a side swept fringe. This face shape will support long hair where as an oblong face wouldn’t. The key with this shape is softness. Soft waves and soft edges work well. Avoid blunt edges like a geometric one-length bob.

Celebrities with square face shapes include Demi Moore, Penelope Cruz, Sandra Bullock and Jennifer Aniston.

  •  Round-cheek bones are the widest part of this shape with a round jaw line. It’s generally as wide as it is long and has a wide hairline and less pronounced chin.

Hairstyles-I just said to stop thinking of a heavy bang, and I’ll say it here as well! This will shrink your face and make it look wider. A layered side swept fringe cutting diagonally across the face will rebalance the roundness. You can add volume in the crown with this shape and length. Avoid adding too many layers at the cheeks, which will draw the eye horizontally. This shape could also pull off a shorter cut like a pixie, but think Michelle Williams with a longer fringe than a traditional pixie that is short all over.

Celebrities with round face shapes include Drew Barrymore, Kelly Clarkson, Kirsten Dunst and Ginnifer Goodwin.

  •  Oblong- your face is longer than it is wide. The forehead, cheeks and jawline are the same width. It’s like a stretched out square.

Hairstyles-Avoid, Avoid, Avoid volume in the crown! I’ve seen some sights walking the streets of NYC with an oblong face and a bump of high hair in the crown. This will only make your face look longer and drawn. Now you can add a full bang! Keep them more rounded than square so it doesn’t mimic the square line of the chin. Also, keep them textured for softness and movement. Long layers work really well, but remember the goal is to add width with this shape at the cheeks and not volume in the crown. Ask for layers that start around the cheeks and jawline.

Celebrities with oblong face shapes include Liv Tyler, Sarah Jessica Parker, and Kelly Rowland.

  •  Oval-Your perfect and can wear anything so we’re not giving you any more attention!

A tip to help triangular and oblong face shapes figure out how to rebalance their proportions is to take the shape you are an invert it. For example, if your face shape is the blue shape, invert it and the red shape will tell you what to add or subtract.

Triangle

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Obviously this will not work for round, square, oval or diamond.

Hope this helps you consider your own face shape and what’s working for you and what’s working against you! Post a comment if you have any questions.

Part 3: The Service

Once the consultation is completed and there is a clear plan with your cut, there are a few things to keep in mind during the actual service.

Most salons, again no matter what the price point is will offer a type of moisture or strengthening treatment to be performed after the shampoo. I usually talk about them during the consultation if the stylist feels that the condition of your hair could be enhanced or improved by them. These treatments are typically a more concentrated, advanced formulation of the hair care line the salon carries. I definitely believe in them and over the years have seen how beneficial they can be. Most of my clients like the shine, softness, strength, and manageability they get from treatments.

Once you’re back in the chair and the service has started, relax and enjoy a beverage. A few things to keep in mind though:

  • Get to know your stylist (a pro will let you do most of the talking…it’s about you!)
  • Watch how the cut is progressing, but don’t micromanage.
  • If there is a concern about the haircut, ask…don’t wait until the end of the appointment and say you don’t like it.
  • No one wants a re-do, especially the stylist. They want you to be happy with their work and you to feel good about yourself
  • They stylist will move your head into positions that are suitable and comfortable for them. Stylists are on their feet, arms in the air, and bending in different positions for eight hours a day…the client is only in the chair for 45min to an hour. Also, certain head positions allow the stylist to cut more accurately…so stay still!

After the cut but before the blow-dry, the stylist should discuss what hair care products will be used on your hair, how much and why. They should also talk to you about what brush will work best with your hair type and texture. I personally believe in hair care products purchased in the salon than in the drugstore for a few reasons:

  • You’re more likely to get better results from a hair care product if a professional that is familiar with the product is recommending it for your hair type that they’re also familiar with. I often have clients that pick up products from a drugstore or Sephora because they think it’s cheaper or they don’t perceive it as different enough from what I’m recommending. However the result usually is that product didn’t work for them. It’s not to say that it’s not a perfectly good product, but it’s not right for their hair or what they’re trying to achieve.

After the hair has been blown out, usually the stylist will detail, finish and personalize your haircut. Don’t get scared… this step really brings the haircut to life. Weight can be removed to add lightness and softness. It’s also a good time to cut or trim the fringe area. A lot of people have hair horror stories of “the scissors with the teeth”. If you’re in good hands this technique can be an asset. Who wants a heavy hair do that doesn’t move?

So, thanks for reading this 3 part entry to help you get the most from your hair appointment! Enjoy.